Re: Point Comfort 23
Posted by MarkR on
URL: http://riverswest-forums.266.s1.nabble.com/Point-Comfort-23-tp527p561.html
We're back from vacation and have been able to get a little time work on the boat. Prior to leaving, the second layer of planking was completed on the forward section below the chine. At the last moment I was able to pull the screws and leave the epoxy to cure for a couple of weeks.
The photo above is what I came back to, all cured and ready to be trimmed. The overlaps were trimmed with the jigsaw, stopping to adjust the angle every three or four feet. Then the power plane came out and I was able to trim the overlaps to almost flush before finishing with #4 & #5 Stanleys. The planking edges are not perfect between chine and keelson, so the Rotex ROS came out with a sixty grit disc. Several hours at the controls left me feeling like I'd had a really good full body workout!
It's looking more and more like a proper boat. I went out yesterday to do some layout work but the batteries in the laser were dead. I decided to do some more sanding to get the hull rough faired. Probably one more session with the ROS and we'll be ready for some fairing and long boarding prior to glass. I like to get the hull faired as much as possible under the fiberglass.
All for now. Next up will be laying out and cutting the keel land, doing the tapes for the "Payson Scarfs" at the butted panels, then a bunch of fairing.
A word on "Payson Scarfs" - more properly, a butt joint. This boat is built with butt blocks joining the topsides panels. This is done for the practical reason that the topside needs nearly the full length of 3 sheets of plywood. A true scarf joint would require an additional sheet of plywood. Dynamite Payson came up with a method of joining panels using a butt joint with fiberglass tapes on both sides. Fast and very strong, but they often read through the finish. A variation of this method is to cut or grind a hollow in the panel where the tape goes. That's the method that I'll be using on the PC 23. Butt blocks on the inside, hollow grind with glass tape on the outside. It should allow for fairing that joint flat and fair.
URL: http://riverswest-forums.266.s1.nabble.com/Point-Comfort-23-tp527p561.html
We're back from vacation and have been able to get a little time work on the boat. Prior to leaving, the second layer of planking was completed on the forward section below the chine. At the last moment I was able to pull the screws and leave the epoxy to cure for a couple of weeks.
The photo above is what I came back to, all cured and ready to be trimmed. The overlaps were trimmed with the jigsaw, stopping to adjust the angle every three or four feet. Then the power plane came out and I was able to trim the overlaps to almost flush before finishing with #4 & #5 Stanleys. The planking edges are not perfect between chine and keelson, so the Rotex ROS came out with a sixty grit disc. Several hours at the controls left me feeling like I'd had a really good full body workout!
It's looking more and more like a proper boat. I went out yesterday to do some layout work but the batteries in the laser were dead. I decided to do some more sanding to get the hull rough faired. Probably one more session with the ROS and we'll be ready for some fairing and long boarding prior to glass. I like to get the hull faired as much as possible under the fiberglass.
All for now. Next up will be laying out and cutting the keel land, doing the tapes for the "Payson Scarfs" at the butted panels, then a bunch of fairing.
A word on "Payson Scarfs" - more properly, a butt joint. This boat is built with butt blocks joining the topsides panels. This is done for the practical reason that the topside needs nearly the full length of 3 sheets of plywood. A true scarf joint would require an additional sheet of plywood. Dynamite Payson came up with a method of joining panels using a butt joint with fiberglass tapes on both sides. Fast and very strong, but they often read through the finish. A variation of this method is to cut or grind a hollow in the panel where the tape goes. That's the method that I'll be using on the PC 23. Butt blocks on the inside, hollow grind with glass tape on the outside. It should allow for fairing that joint flat and fair.
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