I've built a half dozen of these flat-bottomed, single-chined prams in various lengths, and it's a hull form I keep returning to. This time, I'm trying to see how minimalist I can be and still have a safe, fly-casting platform.
A boat weight of 33 pounds is a guess, but probably close enough, because the planking will be 4 mm okoume; the framing, cedar, and the scantlings as light as possible. Design displacement is 180 pounds (= boat weight + a 9 stone rower + oars & gear), which puts the nose on the water, keeps the stern just clear, and offers a theoretical hull speed of just over 4 MPH. The beam is just right for 6.5' oars when grips are overlapped by 2" and the gearing is 30%. Haven't yet decided whether I'll build it S&G or POF. Costs for a finished hull should be under $150.
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The table of offsets is self-explanatory. From it,
HULLS will produce the expansions -- aka, cutting patterns-- most builders are familiar with. The expansions could be created by lofting the boat by hand. But I'm lazy and only loft enough to pick up bevel angles.
The wire frame is just that, a wire frame, a minimalist 3D lofting that shows none of the detailing such as crowned transoms, scuppered gunnel, radial frames, doubled skegs, or a foot stretcher, whose dimensions and placements come from from separately created construction drawings or on-the-shop-floor improvising.
The 2D drawing plots the boat's essential lines, faired to the nearest 0.01" of an inch.
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